My tuning tips:

There is no much tuning necessary, but there are some points where one can do something,

1. Cell-count

With the described minimum cell count of 7 cells I had serious problems to get the heli off the ground.
For everyone, who wants to try it: Pitch at 5°, motor slowly to full throttle, (not enough for lift off) then increase the pitch until the heli lifts off.
Hovering with full throttle and flying arount with much too less RPM is not my favourite. Better put 10 cells below. --> better.

2. Rotor blades

With the original wood-blades flying is possible.

With the GRP-blades the control improves clearly. With the higher RPM there is now a much calmer behaviour at a low current consumption. If the whole helicopter is balanced well (do not forget the paddles!) the little helicopter stands in the air.
The RPM can be increased significantly, without increasing the current too much. My hovering pitch is 4,5 to 5°

Tip: If you attach the control linkage at the outer bolts of the swashplate, you get more waspishly response, but it becomes also more precise.

Additionaly I painted the blade tips neon orange at the top. So the flight attitude during an aerodome ciruit is more clearly visible. Especially at cloudy (white) skies. If the painting is done very even, the balancing of the plades can be omitted.

3. Tail rotor and gyro

By leading the linkage in an absolute straight line, I avoid additional clearance in the linkage. I did notice that the C341 is very powerful and prcise, but for tail rotor control with a piezo-gyro it is too slow. An old rule from combustion-engine times tells: take for the tail rotor (in exact this order) the fastest, most precise, powerfullest sevo that you can get. At the moment I use the Futaba S3101.

4. Arrangement of components

The components were aligned that the control electronics and power current are as far away from each other as possible, while keeping the cables as short as possible.

On the right side the control electronics is fitted. On the front end, far away from all disturbances, the gyro. In the middle, right below the motor, to keep the cables short, the motor controller. In the back the reciever smc14.

On the left side the linkage of the tail rotor is fitted. The power cables take the shortest way from the motor to the motor controller right below and then to the socket for the batteries, which is fixed behind.

Heaven vs. ECO

The two-stage gear is nearly wearless and overload-proof. The well-known machining of the big disc wheel of the ECO does not happen. The efficiency of the combined tooth-belt gear-wheel drive is not as high as a on stage gear. For enthusiasts Gensmantel supplies a conversion set to a one-stage gear. But this will be only useful to competition-pilots.

My Components: